Assam CTC Tea

CTC stands for crush, tear, curl — the rolling method that turns a tea leaf into the small hard granules most Indian kitchens actually brew with. It is what makes a cup come out strong and coppery in three or four minutes instead of eight, and what lets it hold its own against milk and sugar rather than thinning out under them.

This is an everyday Assam rather than a delicate single-estate leaf: brisk, a little malty, made for the pot that goes on first thing. About one heaped teaspoon a cup, boiled with milk in the usual way, or steeped on its own for four minutes if you want it as plain black tea. It takes ginger, cardamom or lemongrass without disappearing under them.

Tea loses its aroma to air faster than it loses anything else, so this is sealed the day it is packed and the pouch reseals. Keep it closed and away from the masala tin — tea picks up whatever is next to it in a cupboard.